Protein popcorn, protein bagels, Starbucks protein cold foam, protein peanut butter cups, etcetera –– it’s clear that in the past two years we’ve achieved what diet culture of the early aughts could never have imagined: a way to enjoy a sweet treat without feeling ashamed. 

On its face, the surging popularity of what some call “health food” seems like a promising cultural turn –– America has long held a reputation as one of the unhealthiest countries in the world. Our life expectancy rates are much lower than other first-world nations, and our chronic disease rates are much higher, despite the fact that we spend more on healthcare than any other country in the world. It’s more than reasonable for Americans to turn toward forms of preventative health care, which includes regular exercise, a healthy diet and yes, a reasonable amount of protein from the right food groups.  

But despite the positive veneer, I can’t help but feel that the surging popularity of protein-rich meal replacements signifies the return of misguided diet culture and fatphobia. American televisions are constantly plagued by ads for GLP-1s; our health department runs Super Bowl commercials where Mike Tyson blames his health problems on his history of being “fat and nasty;” every recipe on Instagram Reels features a dessert you can enjoy without feeling guilty. In a society that regularly demonizes overweight people and depicts them as wholly responsible for their own health problems, it’s predictable that our relationship with food would become disordered. You must be doing something wrong, says health influencer #3345, if you genuinely enjoy a plate of food. Every meal must consist of plain chicken and rice, and if you do well enough, you can reward yourself with a cookie that is not really a cookie, but a vehicle for more protein. It certainly seems like the American desire to get healthy comes from a place of fear and shame, rather than a genuine desire to improve one’s wellbeing. 

Amidst a shifting culture, I think it’s important to remember that no one has to follow the general paradigm. No matter how many protein ice creams overwhelm the freezer section, it’s okay to buy a pint of Ben and Jerry’s. You aren’t failing yourself or anyone else by indulging in something nice.