It’s a familiar assumption that food served at a bar is usually below par. Most of us associate the bar menu with bland appetizers, greasy onion rings and stale breads or chips. And at most bars, if you’re bold enough to try the soup, maybe you’ve had one too many to drink.

This assumption may be familiar, but it certainly doesn’t apply to the popular Omaha institution that is the Dundee Dell.

Located at 5007 Underwood Ave. near 50th Street, the Dundee Dell is more than your typical neighborhood pub.

I, not being a local Omahan, have only discovered this cozy niche this year and have been missing out on a real restaurant treat.

Entering the bar/restaurant you’ll notice that it is quite dark. Even for lunch in the middle of the day, the spot had a dimness that was more comforting than having a sense of exclusivity. Going into the Dell feels like entering a familiar friend’s basement.

The menu is evidence that this bar doesn’t skimp on food. The menu includes appetizers, ‘soups n’ salads’, entrees, burgers and a sandwich board that most delis would be jealous of.

The soups are impressive fare. The chef chooses which soups are served daily. On Fridays, customers are able to taste a hearty, flavorful clam chowder. I enjoyed the fact that the soup was more than the standard clam and potatoes. The carrots and celery added a nice balance to the flavor.

On Mondays there’s the white chicken chili. Normally, I’m not a fan of chicken chili, but this cup was very good. The sweet tomatoes mixed perfectly with the black beans and salty pulled chicken. The spicy, thick base would do well on its own. It was very tangy, which made a perfect dip for the two black tortilla chips it was served with. The spice made me wish the server brought out my glass of water before the soup.

The sandwich board has enough choices to satisfy almost any hungry lunchtime customer. Its most popular sandwich is called the “Big Easy.” The dish is an onion roll served with your choice of meat and melted provolone, a “secret sauce” and a heap of cole slaw right in the sandwich. I ordered mine with pastrami. The bread was soft but still had that crunch that’s so very important in a hot sandwich. The cool cole slaw made a nice combo with the warm pastrami.

Its Philly is a sandwich you’ll need utensils to eat. The dish may have been a bit too ambitious with its ingredients: sliced steak, green peppers, sautéed onions, Swiss and more of that “secret sauce.” The components were overflowing the hoagie bun, making it impossible to hold like a Philly you might get in the streets of Philadelphia.

But this is a bar, and perhaps this is a dish someone might order in hopes of sobering up. Other than the enormous size, the sandwich was adequate. The green peppers, usually an understated taste, stood out as they weren’t cooked as much as the onions or steak. I barely noticed the mushrooms.

Lastly, a survey of the Dell’s food wouldn’t be complete without a mention of its “Famous Fish n’ Chips.” The traditional bar staple is executed to perfection at the Dundee Dell. The entree is served in a bag for some reason, maybe to remind you of opening a gift, which is exactly what the Dell is giving in this item.

The crispy, golden Atlantic Cod is love at first bite. The chips are cut to the ideal width, not fat and soggy, not hard and crunchy, but soft and crispy at the same time. The homemade tarter sauce just makes the dish complete. Maybe order this on a day you don’t have afternoon classes because after you eat it, you’ll want to take a nap.

The building itself is quite big. The main dining area is lined with booths and tables up to the kitchen at the back. To the right of the eatery is more space with a pool table and photo booth.

But the main attraction for regulars has to be the wide horseshoe bar. The wooden ‘U’ is one of the largest I’ve seen. The ends of the bar lead your eyes to an impressive, lighted wall of liquor.

I feel like I’m shortchanging the actual bar by not including alcohol in this review. Unfortunately I, with my present age, am not able to report any findings on the matter. But don’t let this make you underestimate the magnitude of the bar.

The bar prides itself on its “Great Wall of Scotch.” More than 300 varieties and ages are available for tasting. The menu even claims to have the largest Single Malt Scotch Collection in the world. The Dell has scotch tastings every month if you would like to sample some yourself. . The variety of whiskies, tequilas and other liquors is just astounding.

Part bar, part deli, the Dundee Dell is all worth the drive down California Street for some fish, chips and any drink you can imagine.